Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
